Port Douglas - Rainforest tour

 

On our third day we headed out on a rainforest discovery tour. I went in with low expectations. We signed up mostly because of the rave reviews we read online. I remember reading the descriptions and looking at the pictures and not really getting it but in the end this was the most memorable day of our trip. Our guide made a big difference. I felt we lacked for information on the Great Barrier Reef. In contrast, I came away from this tour feeling much more knowledgeable about the wonders and the importance of the rainforest that makes up this section of the Wet Tropics World Heritage area.

In trying to recall some of what I learned I came across this succinct description: 

The Greater Daintree Rainforest has existed continuously for more than 110 million years, making it possibly the oldest existing rainforest. The persistence of this rainforest is believed to be a product of a fortuitous continental drift; after the breakup of its parent supercontinent a portion drifted toward the pole to become Antarctica, disturbing ocean currents and becoming quite chilly, while other portions were moved to hotter and drier locations. The rainforests of the parent continent preserved its climate, and so also its original forests. Tree species, once thought to be long extinct, have only relatively recently been discovered here. Source

Where other ancient forests faced ice ages or volcanoes, this forest stayed intact. The whole area has a sort of prehistoric feel. It is dark. There are a lot of ferns and vines. The sandy granite soil holds very few nutrients so the plants grow on sunlight, water and decaying other plants. It was impressive and a little uncomfortable. You could see how it would be home to crocodiles, pythons, cassowaries and other animals that stepped out of another time.

Our guide pointed out how the trees conserved their energy by growing the fruit right off the trunks rather than growing branches. 

When you went to use the bathrooms you walked by webs with thoroughly harmless but still alarmingly large spiders.

After our walk through the forest we headed out for a guided tour of the Daintree River. Our guide said the boat operator knew all the crocodiles by name and to my surprise he did. He regaled us with tales of Scarface, Big Albert, Elizabeth and Eric/Erica. He spoke affectionately and respectfully about the species.

We saw three crocs in all. This two year old one and another much larger male lurking underwater. He explained how saltwater crocs like these can hold their breath under water for two or three hours at a time and can and have killed cows, dogs and people.

In between sightings we looked out at the river and kept an eye out for tree snakes and tree frogs. He also showed us some of his best photos from previous tours. I loved his quiet understated manner and the way he'd say things like, "Made a bit of noise as it was eaten alive. As one would." I suddenly started taking the crocodile warning sign posts much more seriously.

I am still amazed he was able to spot this tree snake. Note how it is doubled up on itself so it's actually about three feet long.

Our driver said he did get into dangerous situations sometimes. One time they watched two crocs fighting and he moved about fifteen feet away. He asked everyone to stand on the far side of the boat. Then one croc disappeared from view and then without warning it popped up and bit the side railing of the boat. High drama! 

Next we met up with our guide again and drove up further up North to Cape Tribulation. This area is known as one of the few (perhaps only?) place where two world heritage spots abut - the Wet Tropics come right down to the shoreline and meet the Great Barrier Reef. It was named by Captain James Cook who had just run aground on a reef and clearly had ambivalent feelings about the area.

It had an exotic end of the world feel. The waters looked warm and inviting but once I again I heeded the croc warnings and instead just walked and admired.

At the end of our tour we stopped at a private farm, climbed into a dusty Land Rover and headed out to swim under a waterfall in a stream we were assured was far too cold for crocs. 

After a day of exploring out of my comfort zone I felt very at home swimming outside in a stream. We made good use of our waterproof camera. As we started swimming back in our guide took a handful of food and threw it into the water and the water came alive with ripples at the surface. Out from the shadows came two eels and a variety of turtles. Hmm. Not so much like the Adirondacks after all.

We returned again to Port Douglas and ended the day with dinner at a restaurant called On the Inlet. We took these two photos with our iPhones. I love seeing our happy relaxed look as we prepared to eat seafood by the ocean's edge.